01.15.2021 | 146360
Replaced OEM oil sump plate and baffle with FVD Motorsport Oil Pan + X51 Baffle
Installed GT3 Brake Ducts
Installed Tarrett Front & Rear GT Series Sway Bar Kits
Installed Tarrett Front & Rear Adjustable Drop Links
Replace tires with Michelin Pilot Sport 2's
Replaced Front & Rear Thrust Arms
Replaced Front & Rear Strut Mounts
Replaced Front Strut Bearings
Replace Front Coffin Arm w/ GT3 Adjustable Arm + Tarrett LCA Rubber End
Replaced Inner & Outer Tie Rods
Replaced Rear Toe Arm
Replaced Rear Dog Bones
Replaced Rear Litronics Height Sensor Linkage
My previous attempt at resealing the sump plate still resulted in a leaky plate. I've since replaced it with an FVD unit that has the X51 baffle. I don't track this car, and I figured a new sump and baffle at this price point was reasonable. I replaced this sometime last year and just included it in this post. It's been a few months and not a drop of oil, so I can't complain. I had started getting a vibration in my steering wheel around 75mph which prompted me to start looking at tie rod ends. Given the age and mileage of the vehicle, I said F it and just replaced everything that keep the car to the road. While the car was on the lift and I was waiting for parts, I took the wheels to America's Tire for new rubber. I went with 245/35/18 in the front and 315/30/18 in the rear. I did have a small amount of rubber at full lock out with 245/40/18 so I decided to go one side smaller this time.
While researching this project, a lot of people had issues with getting their sockets to fit in the lower coffin arm to torque the two studs there. I had zero issues using Snap On 1/4" Drive Swivel sockets. Given the amount of "tight" spots you run into while working on common issues, I highly recommend investing in the Snap On 1/4" swivel socket set. Another thing to note is I followed Tarrett's recommendation with swapping the driver and passenger side coffin arms if using 16mm worth of spacers. If you have a litronics equipped car, make sure you get the sensor bracket for one side and a 1mm spacer for the other.
Ignore any of the eccentric bolts in this photo - this was before any an alignment was done.
I have some feedback on the Tarrett Kit. I think the sway bars were okay, but feel the drop link kits left more to be desired. They used good quality rod ends, but my first annoyance was paying $30 worth of rubber boots that did not fit. $60 gets you enough boots for the front and rear, but they only fit the rears; they do not fit the font rod ends. I was able to get larger boots for the front from McMaster Carr.
EDIT: Tarrett’s site actually offers both correct size boots! I ordered my kit from Rennline and that’s where I noticed they do not offer the correct sizes!
My second issue was with the inserts for the front link kit; some of the spacers were a nice slip fit with the rod ends and fasteners, but one side was a press fit. I had to use a mallet on one side to get the bolt out. As someone who has a good amount of machine tool experience, I would probably guess an insert on their turning tool was worn, so the bore of the spacer was on the low side of the tolerance. It made something that should've taken a few seconds take about 20 minutes. My last issue is with the supplied bolts. If you have Bilstein PSS10's the bolts for the rear upper mount are too long; your bolt will hit the bottom of the shock tube before it actually clamps down on the rod end. I got all new hardware for the rod ends.
After getting my hardware issues sorted out, I installed the boots. I'm a bit of a belt and suspenders type of guy. I cleaned a surprising amount of metal swarf and chips off the rod ends, then protected them with silicone grease and installed the boot. I then crimped the boot, so that water will not drip down the link and collect in the boot.
For people thinking about the boots, save yourself a lot of swearing and grief and just but the installation tool. It allows you to open the boot and slip the rod end in. You will likely rip the boot trying to stretch it open without the correct tool.
Here is a good shot of everything fully buttoned up. I also got yellow zinc plated bolts that were 5mm shorter than the ones supplied. The supplied hardware had quite a bit of excessive threads sticking out.
After the suspension work was finished, I took the car to Darin at West End Alignment. We did a corner balance and alignment. For anyone in the LA area looking for a solid alignment shop, Darin in your guy. We spent the first 20 minutes of my appointment talking about what my expectations were and how I use/drive the car. I went with -2.5deg camber in the front, and -2.3 deg camber in the rear. Total front toe is about 1/16" and rear total toe is 3/32". My only regret in this entire process is not doing this sooner. It has completely transformed the car. Everything feels tight, responsive, and firm. I had never driven a 996 prior to owning mine, nor have I ever driven someone else's 996. If you own a 996 and the suspension looks original, refreshing the suspension is worth every penny.
I have new sebro slotted rotors for the front and rear, along with new textar pads. I held off on installing them since I had to do a bit of traveling for work, and I'm toying with the idea of refinishing the calipers and rebuilding them. FCP has OEM rebuilt kits for around $45 per caliper. Debating if I have time to try and refinish myself with something like VHT or taking it to a professional. I also have an UAOS with aluminum accumulator on order. Lots of projects to keep me busy, and the 996 running well.