Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs

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5chn3ll
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Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs

Post by 5chn3ll » Mon Jun 11, 2018 12:31 pm

Removing the 996 gauge pod sounds a lot more intimidating than it actually is.

Tools: A bit driver, Torx bits, spudgers/body panel tools/picks.
Parts: Cluster bulbs (available from Pelican; part link coming).

P00.jpg

Using your picks or a soft-touch spudger, pry off the plastic cover on the left side of the cluster.

P01.jpg

Use your picks/spudgers to remove the hazard light surround.

P02.jpg

TIP: Mark the hazard switch so you'll know top from bottom later. I Sharpied mine @ the top.

P03.jpg

Depress the retaining ears and carefully extract the hazard switch by pulling it TOWARD you. Do this carefully; if you torque the switch assembly too much, it pops apart and the tiny parts inside will disappear forever.

P03A.jpg

Once the switch is removed the harness for the hazard switch drops down out of the pod.

Remove both Torx bolts holding the pod to the dash.

P05.jpg
P04.jpg

CAREFULLY pry up the locking tabs on both ends of the bottom edge of the cluster. These tabs keep the gauge pod locked into the surround.

P06.jpg

Remove and store the surround.

Roll the gauge pod forward so it rests on the steering colunm. Use a microfiber towel to protect the window if you're so inclined.

P07.jpg

Roll down the driver window and cover the driver door with a towel or fender cover. Stand outside the car so you can see the three wiring harnesses that connect to the pod.

P08.jpg

Depress the locking tab on the harness closest to you. With the tab depressed, swing the harness retaining clip upward to disengage the harness and unplug it from the cluster.

P09.jpg

Repeat with the other two harness connectors. This photo shows the connector partially disengaged.

P09B.jpg

Getting the damned connectors to release is by far the hardest part of this project, especially if you're trying to do it by touch. Here's a close-up of how they work...

Detail.png
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Once they're all disconnected, lift the pod out so you can continue working on it.

P10.jpg

Use your bit driver to remove the problematic bulb(s) and replace with new parts. You may want to take a "before" picture showing the proper orientation of the properly installed bulbs. If you do not install and rotate the bulbs correctly, they may not connect correctly with the PCB inside the pod.

P11.jpg

To reassemble, start with the innermost harness connector (the black one) and work outward so you have the most space and the best view. Again, standing outside looking in through the windshield is going to be a LOT easier than trying to do this all by feel from the driver seat.

Remember that you have to slide the hazard switch connecter back up from the bottom of the pod before inserting the hazard switch.

P11B.jpg

Be sure the switch is oriented properly (the mark you made during disassembly makes this easy).

PRO TIP: This would be a great time to reconnect the battery (if you disconnected it beforehand) and turn the key to the accessory position to ensure that all of the bulbs light up as expected...doing so at this point can save substantially on the overall amount of cursing involved with this project.

P12.jpg

Understeer: You will hit the wall with the front end.
Oversteer: You will hit the wall with the rear end.
Horsepower: How hard you will hit the wall.
Torque: How far you will move the wall.

Gone hunting with Alec Baldwin and Dick Cheney. Back soon.

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B3DAWG
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs

Post by B3DAWG » Mon Jun 11, 2018 1:05 pm

Nice write up Captain Schnelly!

p.s. u got sum hairy arms!

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32wildbilly
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs

Post by 32wildbilly » Mon Jun 11, 2018 1:08 pm

Wow! Nicely done and documented. Thanx.
Never gonna make you cry...

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KoB
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs

Post by KoB » Mon Jun 11, 2018 3:51 pm

32wildbilly wrote: Mon Jun 11, 2018 1:08 pm Wow! Nicely done and documented. Thanx.
Agreed. By far the best DIY I’ve seen on this.

I’m fighting a non-illuminated odometer that doesn’t seem to be a dead bulb, so my gauge pod has been in and out a couple times. I’m probably going to have to send it out for repair over the winter unless I spot something obvious.
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sweet victory
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs

Post by sweet victory » Mon Jun 11, 2018 3:55 pm

Hmmm. Thinking of moving my head unit's microphone behind that first plastic cover you removed. Any thoughts on that before I go tearing my dash apart?

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steve578
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs

Post by steve578 » Mon Jun 11, 2018 4:07 pm

Great write up! I’ll likely need this in the future to have the surround recovered. The leather is starting to shrink where it meets the dash.
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32wildbilly
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs

Post by 32wildbilly » Mon Jun 11, 2018 5:21 pm

I just gotta ask...was this when you were looking for the headlight wiring overheat/smoke issue or did the hi way pipe bounce up and knock out some dash lights, too? Regardless...nicely done.
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Never gonna make you cry...

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Cuda911
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs

Post by Cuda911 » Mon Jun 11, 2018 7:29 pm

Great write-up, thanks!
Mike

'68 Ford Custom 500; '70 Plymouth Cuda; '71 Ford Econoline; 73 Porsche 914 1.7, '74 Porsche 914 1.8; '74 Suzuki TC185; '86 Suzuki GS450L; '88 Subaru GL104WD Turbo Ltd Edn;; '88 Subaru XT; '91 Lexus ES250; '93 Jeep Wrangler, '99 Porsche Boxster, '03 Turbo VW Beetle; '03 Porsche Boxster; '03 Porsche Carrera C2; '07 Porsche Cayman, '11 BMW 328i, '12 Porsche 991 S, '14 Porsche Cayman, & a mishmash of other vehicles.

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Dr_Strangelove
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs

Post by Dr_Strangelove » Mon Jun 11, 2018 10:17 pm

This is Outpost quality. Excellent work man.
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5chn3ll
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs

Post by 5chn3ll » Wed Jun 13, 2018 10:20 am

The plastic cover has a rectangular housing/mount behind the perforated front...looks like it's designed to hold a microphone or sensor for some option my car doesn't have.

Check out the zoomed photo - only the small vertical rectangle you can see is open. I don't think you'll get great performance out of the microphone in that location. I ran the wire for my head unit's microphone up the A-pillar, above the headliner, to the overhead light console. It's visible but not aesthetically unpleasant, and it works really well in that location. I'll shoot a photo tonight.
Detailed.png
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sweet victory wrote: Mon Jun 11, 2018 3:55 pm Hmmm. Thinking of moving my head unit's microphone behind that first plastic cover you removed. Any thoughts on that before I go tearing my dash apart?

Understeer: You will hit the wall with the front end.
Oversteer: You will hit the wall with the rear end.
Horsepower: How hard you will hit the wall.
Torque: How far you will move the wall.

Gone hunting with Alec Baldwin and Dick Cheney. Back soon.

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