Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs
Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs
Removing the 996 gauge pod sounds a lot more intimidating than it actually is.
Tools: A bit driver, Torx bits, spudgers/body panel tools/picks.
Parts: Cluster bulbs (available from Pelican; part link coming).
Using your picks or a soft-touch spudger, pry off the plastic cover on the left side of the cluster.
Use your picks/spudgers to remove the hazard light surround.
TIP: Mark the hazard switch so you'll know top from bottom later. I Sharpied mine @ the top.
Depress the retaining ears and carefully extract the hazard switch by pulling it TOWARD you. Do this carefully; if you torque the switch assembly too much, it pops apart and the tiny parts inside will disappear forever.
Once the switch is removed the harness for the hazard switch drops down out of the pod.
Remove both Torx bolts holding the pod to the dash.
CAREFULLY pry up the locking tabs on both ends of the bottom edge of the cluster. These tabs keep the gauge pod locked into the surround.
Remove and store the surround.
Roll the gauge pod forward so it rests on the steering colunm. Use a microfiber towel to protect the window if you're so inclined.
Roll down the driver window and cover the driver door with a towel or fender cover. Stand outside the car so you can see the three wiring harnesses that connect to the pod.
Depress the locking tab on the harness closest to you. With the tab depressed, swing the harness retaining clip upward to disengage the harness and unplug it from the cluster.
Repeat with the other two harness connectors. This photo shows the connector partially disengaged.
Getting the damned connectors to release is by far the hardest part of this project, especially if you're trying to do it by touch. Here's a close-up of how they work...
Once they're all disconnected, lift the pod out so you can continue working on it.
Use your bit driver to remove the problematic bulb(s) and replace with new parts. You may want to take a "before" picture showing the proper orientation of the properly installed bulbs. If you do not install and rotate the bulbs correctly, they may not connect correctly with the PCB inside the pod.
To reassemble, start with the innermost harness connector (the black one) and work outward so you have the most space and the best view. Again, standing outside looking in through the windshield is going to be a LOT easier than trying to do this all by feel from the driver seat.
Remember that you have to slide the hazard switch connecter back up from the bottom of the pod before inserting the hazard switch.
Be sure the switch is oriented properly (the mark you made during disassembly makes this easy).
PRO TIP: This would be a great time to reconnect the battery (if you disconnected it beforehand) and turn the key to the accessory position to ensure that all of the bulbs light up as expected...doing so at this point can save substantially on the overall amount of cursing involved with this project.
Tools: A bit driver, Torx bits, spudgers/body panel tools/picks.
Parts: Cluster bulbs (available from Pelican; part link coming).
Using your picks or a soft-touch spudger, pry off the plastic cover on the left side of the cluster.
Use your picks/spudgers to remove the hazard light surround.
TIP: Mark the hazard switch so you'll know top from bottom later. I Sharpied mine @ the top.
Depress the retaining ears and carefully extract the hazard switch by pulling it TOWARD you. Do this carefully; if you torque the switch assembly too much, it pops apart and the tiny parts inside will disappear forever.
Once the switch is removed the harness for the hazard switch drops down out of the pod.
Remove both Torx bolts holding the pod to the dash.
CAREFULLY pry up the locking tabs on both ends of the bottom edge of the cluster. These tabs keep the gauge pod locked into the surround.
Remove and store the surround.
Roll the gauge pod forward so it rests on the steering colunm. Use a microfiber towel to protect the window if you're so inclined.
Roll down the driver window and cover the driver door with a towel or fender cover. Stand outside the car so you can see the three wiring harnesses that connect to the pod.
Depress the locking tab on the harness closest to you. With the tab depressed, swing the harness retaining clip upward to disengage the harness and unplug it from the cluster.
Repeat with the other two harness connectors. This photo shows the connector partially disengaged.
Getting the damned connectors to release is by far the hardest part of this project, especially if you're trying to do it by touch. Here's a close-up of how they work...
Once they're all disconnected, lift the pod out so you can continue working on it.
Use your bit driver to remove the problematic bulb(s) and replace with new parts. You may want to take a "before" picture showing the proper orientation of the properly installed bulbs. If you do not install and rotate the bulbs correctly, they may not connect correctly with the PCB inside the pod.
To reassemble, start with the innermost harness connector (the black one) and work outward so you have the most space and the best view. Again, standing outside looking in through the windshield is going to be a LOT easier than trying to do this all by feel from the driver seat.
Remember that you have to slide the hazard switch connecter back up from the bottom of the pod before inserting the hazard switch.
Be sure the switch is oriented properly (the mark you made during disassembly makes this easy).
PRO TIP: This would be a great time to reconnect the battery (if you disconnected it beforehand) and turn the key to the accessory position to ensure that all of the bulbs light up as expected...doing so at this point can save substantially on the overall amount of cursing involved with this project.
Understeer: You will hit the wall with the front end.
Oversteer: You will hit the wall with the rear end.
Horsepower: How hard you will hit the wall.
Torque: How far you will move the wall.
Gone hunting with Alec Baldwin and Dick Cheney. Back soon.
- B3DAWG
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs
Nice write up Captain Schnelly!
p.s. u got sum hairy arms!
p.s. u got sum hairy arms!
- 32wildbilly
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs
Wow! Nicely done and documented. Thanx.
Never gonna make you cry...
- KoB
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs
Agreed. By far the best DIY I’ve seen on this.
I’m fighting a non-illuminated odometer that doesn’t seem to be a dead bulb, so my gauge pod has been in and out a couple times. I’m probably going to have to send it out for repair over the winter unless I spot something obvious.
2000 Cabriolet-vertible, Paladio Pearl (Mirage) Metallic
1986 944, Zermatt Silver, AKA Der HooptieWagen
1986 944, Zermatt Silver, AKA Der HooptieWagen
- sweet victory
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs
Hmmm. Thinking of moving my head unit's microphone behind that first plastic cover you removed. Any thoughts on that before I go tearing my dash apart?
Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs
Great write up! I’ll likely need this in the future to have the surround recovered. The leather is starting to shrink where it meets the dash.
2004 C42
1987 924S
2016 Land Cruiser
1973 Wagoneer
1987 924S
2016 Land Cruiser
1973 Wagoneer
- 32wildbilly
- Never gonna run around and desert you
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- Location: Kneebraska
Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs
I just gotta ask...was this when you were looking for the headlight wiring overheat/smoke issue or did the hi way pipe bounce up and knock out some dash lights, too? Regardless...nicely done.
Never gonna make you cry...
- Cuda911
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs
Great write-up, thanks!
Mike
'68 Ford Custom 500; '70 Plymouth Cuda; '71 Ford Econoline; 73 Porsche 914 1.7, '74 Porsche 914 1.8; '74 Suzuki TC185; '86 Suzuki GS450L; '88 Subaru GL104WD Turbo Ltd Edn;; '88 Subaru XT; '91 Lexus ES250; '93 Jeep Wrangler, '99 Porsche Boxster, '03 Turbo VW Beetle; '03 Porsche Boxster; '03 Porsche Carrera C2; '07 Porsche Cayman, '11 BMW 328i, '12 Porsche 991 S, '14 Porsche Cayman, & a mishmash of other vehicles.
'68 Ford Custom 500; '70 Plymouth Cuda; '71 Ford Econoline; 73 Porsche 914 1.7, '74 Porsche 914 1.8; '74 Suzuki TC185; '86 Suzuki GS450L; '88 Subaru GL104WD Turbo Ltd Edn;; '88 Subaru XT; '91 Lexus ES250; '93 Jeep Wrangler, '99 Porsche Boxster, '03 Turbo VW Beetle; '03 Porsche Boxster; '03 Porsche Carrera C2; '07 Porsche Cayman, '11 BMW 328i, '12 Porsche 991 S, '14 Porsche Cayman, & a mishmash of other vehicles.
- Dr_Strangelove
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Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs
This is Outpost quality. Excellent work man.
2003 Carrera: Dark Teal Metallic
Re: Removing gauge pod to install new warning light bulbs
The plastic cover has a rectangular housing/mount behind the perforated front...looks like it's designed to hold a microphone or sensor for some option my car doesn't have.
Check out the zoomed photo - only the small vertical rectangle you can see is open. I don't think you'll get great performance out of the microphone in that location. I ran the wire for my head unit's microphone up the A-pillar, above the headliner, to the overhead light console. It's visible but not aesthetically unpleasant, and it works really well in that location. I'll shoot a photo tonight.
Check out the zoomed photo - only the small vertical rectangle you can see is open. I don't think you'll get great performance out of the microphone in that location. I ran the wire for my head unit's microphone up the A-pillar, above the headliner, to the overhead light console. It's visible but not aesthetically unpleasant, and it works really well in that location. I'll shoot a photo tonight.
sweet victory wrote: ↑Mon Jun 11, 2018 3:55 pm Hmmm. Thinking of moving my head unit's microphone behind that first plastic cover you removed. Any thoughts on that before I go tearing my dash apart?
Understeer: You will hit the wall with the front end.
Oversteer: You will hit the wall with the rear end.
Horsepower: How hard you will hit the wall.
Torque: How far you will move the wall.
Gone hunting with Alec Baldwin and Dick Cheney. Back soon.