Break Bleeders
Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 2:45 pm
So, Sunday, I spent an hour and a half screwing up a break bleed job on my 996tt. First, I broke off the outer bleed screw on the right front caliber. But, since I didn't get the screw to turn, it remains drivable. So, after bleeding the other 7 bleed screws, I went for a short drive. Pedal was mushy, mushy, mushy.
Here is the Harbor Freight vacuum break bleeder I used:
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-flu ... 92924.html
The instructions say the vacuum bleeder operates at 90 to 120 psi. My 8 gallon, 2 hp compressor, 125 psi max electric compressor just couldn't hold 90+ psi for more than about 15 seconds at a time. So, I constantly had to release the vacuum trigger, wait for 20 seconds or so and then re-engage. I think that led to air getting into the brake lines. I was careful to keep the brake fluid reservoir topped off the entire time, so I am confident that air didn't get in from the top of the system. I'm taking the car into the shop tomorrow to have the broken bleeder screw replaced and the brakes competently bled.
My question for the crowd is what is the easiest and most effective break bleeding method/system/equipment? Since the hooptie fleet is up to 6 cars, plus 3 daily drivers, it makes sense to invest a little money into a break bleeder. A pressure bleeder that pushes from the top? A higher quality vacuum bleeder coupled with a bigger compressor? Just save the tool money and always take it to a professional?
I like doing break jobs since the mechanics like to charge an arm and a leg for something that is relatively simple. So, I'd like to become competent at bleeding/flushing the brake system. My retired professional mechanic uncle always says that 90% of any job is having the right tools. What say you?
Here is the Harbor Freight vacuum break bleeder I used:
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-flu ... 92924.html
The instructions say the vacuum bleeder operates at 90 to 120 psi. My 8 gallon, 2 hp compressor, 125 psi max electric compressor just couldn't hold 90+ psi for more than about 15 seconds at a time. So, I constantly had to release the vacuum trigger, wait for 20 seconds or so and then re-engage. I think that led to air getting into the brake lines. I was careful to keep the brake fluid reservoir topped off the entire time, so I am confident that air didn't get in from the top of the system. I'm taking the car into the shop tomorrow to have the broken bleeder screw replaced and the brakes competently bled.
My question for the crowd is what is the easiest and most effective break bleeding method/system/equipment? Since the hooptie fleet is up to 6 cars, plus 3 daily drivers, it makes sense to invest a little money into a break bleeder. A pressure bleeder that pushes from the top? A higher quality vacuum bleeder coupled with a bigger compressor? Just save the tool money and always take it to a professional?
I like doing break jobs since the mechanics like to charge an arm and a leg for something that is relatively simple. So, I'd like to become competent at bleeding/flushing the brake system. My retired professional mechanic uncle always says that 90% of any job is having the right tools. What say you?