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What would be a clever answer to this very curious young enthusiast?

Yes! Would you like to sit in it? Maybe a start for a new Porschephile.

b3freak wrote: ↑Mon May 24, 2021 1:43 pm

FRUNKenstein wrote: ↑Mon May 24, 2021 1:25 pm

Well, I just hope you weren't skateboarding.

hahaha... you see that?

Get this... I'm the only one in the entire parking lot taking a picture of the car and this kid comes up and asks, "Wow, is that YOUR car???"

What would be a clever answer to this very curious young enthusiast?

Maybe "Yes, thank you."

Of course, you could go the opposite:

I removed my (magnetic) oil drain plug!

About 3 oil changes ago, dummy here used a torx bit instead of a hex bit. It had tooled some extra marks in the plug but oh well, next time I'll use the correct bit. 2 oil changes ago I try to use a hex but the extra tooled edges from the torx bit caused it to slip. No problem, I'm an idiot, so I'll just keep using a torx bit. 1 oil change ago I noticed, uh oh, this plug is made of very soft aluminum and it's starting to stretch out a bit because I'm using the incorrect bit. I had better order a new plug for my next change and do this correctly. Last week's oil change, I puuuull on the wrench and feel it's just about to give. And give it did! I stripped the sucker. So I look up some advice. "Use a torx bit" Way ahead of you. "Use a bigger torx bit and hammer it in." Ok! I can do that! Oh yeah - I made the hole even bigger. So I tried cutting some straight valleys in the edges of the plug so that I could try using a chisel and twist it out like a screwdriver. Turns out I'm a giant weakling.

At this point I'm scratching my head. I figure - well I've never taken the sump off. I suppose now is as good a time as any to see what's floating around in there since I bought this thing in 2015.


Two pieces of chain guide that are fairly large and flat. 10mm socket in photo for scale. Not so bad for a sump that I know for certain has not been open for at least 6 years, though I suspect many more than that. I have found maybe 2-3 smaller pieces of brown plastic in my filter over the years - so I was expecting to find more carnage than this.

Ok, cool, so that's over with. Now how am I going to get this %#$@ing plug out? Well - best idea was to figure out which hex socket fits the bore I created the best, (7mm,) and get some of the shade tree mechanic's "golden" nectar - JB weld. I epoxy welded that hex socket in there and now I've got a pretty fun little trinket for my wall of shame. REALLY glad that worked. Oil changes should not be this emotional.

I posted this in the What's in your tool bag thread, but I'll share here since it can save a lot of head ache with stripped drain plugs. Mac tools released a series of tools called RBRT. RBRT = Rounded Bolt Removal Technology. They offer them in torx, hex, triple square, etc. The tip is designed to optimize extracting internal drive without rounding them out. You can use them on rounded out internal drive fasteners, or just use them on really tight things before rounding them out. It's only $16 for the 8mm hex size...I bought one just for the oil drain plug. Since Mac is owned by Stanley Black & Decker, you'll probably also find the same tool released under the Facom and Proto names.



https://www.mactools.com/products/xh8mmrbrtbs



Where the point on the hex bit can strip, the RBRT bit has a little angled flat spot so it's not point loading the fastener.

PURCHASED. Thanks sweet.

Damn good thing you got that 10 mm socket out of the sump - imagine the damage it could have done!

Made loud noises and smiles.

Parked it and said I'll deal with you later.

Leaving work one day last week, on acceleration, was getting a chirping noise. Headed right back to the shop.
Next morning, after scrolling through multiple forums, found one guy that said check for loose plugs.

Passenger side went easy, 2 of 3 plugs were loose. One was hand tight. Immediately threw my torque wrench in the trash and bought a new one.

Driver side didn't go so well. Snapped both bolts holding the heatshield. Then snapped 4 more holding muffler and exhaust. Not one spark plug was loose.

Finally fixed everything, and start doing a service (oil, filters, wipers, bleed the brakes). Well, bleeding the front brakes, discovered both outer axle boots were leaking. Put it back together, and drove it back to the house. Put a cover on it. Said, I'll deal with you later.

02TX996Cab wrote: ↑Sun May 23, 2021 4:59 pm I power my V1 Gen 1 via Valentine's Savvy attachment, which takes its power from the OBD2 port. I run a cable from the Savvy along the A-pillar and headliner as Gnat described. The Savvy has a power port for the detector as well as one for Valentine's Bluetooth dongle (not needed for Gen 2).

The Savvy allows me to customize a speed threshold below which only the quieter volume is used. The Valentine phone App mimics this functionality, but if I don't pair my phone then the Savvy takes over.

I noticed my V1G2 is in the mail, so I started looking at how I want to hardwire this thing. I looked at the savvy and unfortunately it cannot work as the power supply for the G2. See note section at bottom: https://store.valentine1.com/Store/item.asp?i=20220

sweet victory wrote: ↑Thu Jun 03, 2021 8:49 am I looked at the savvy and unfortunately it cannot work as the power supply for the G2. See note section at bottom: https://store.valentine1.com/Store/item.asp?i=20220

Well shucks, that means if I upgrade to a G2 I'll need to rewire one or both P-cars with a direct-wire kit. At least I should be able to reuse the wiring from the outlet of the savvy up to the V1.

Thanks for sharing this, and good luck with your install.