Ignition Switch Replacement
Posted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:51 am
This applies equally to all variants of the 996: NA, Turbo, GT2, GT3. They all use the same ignition switch. The "ignition switch" as referred to in this post is just the electrical portion of the ignition - not the tumblers (where you actually insert the key, official name "ignition lock cylinder") or the "gun" (which is shaped like a pistol and includes the electrical portion, the tumblers and the mounting for both, official name "ignition lock cylinder housing"). I would bet that by now, the electrical portion of the ignition switch has failed at least once on nearly every 996 ever made. It's best to just think of the electrical portion of the switch as a wear item that you should plan on replacing from time to time. In fact, it is such a common occurrence, that you should keep a spare ignition switch in your glovebox along with a small flatblade screwdriver tip (and just a tip that is only about 1 inch long). That way, when the inevitable happens and the switch fails, you have both the part and the tool to do a quick swap and get yourself back on the road in less than 30 minutes.
One of the first symptoms that your ignition switch is going bad is that your key will be difficult to remove from the tumblers. Also, you might feel your tumblers getting "crunchy". At that point, you'll swear that you've got a problem with the tumblers. However, the actual culprit is just the electrical portion of the ignition switch that sits on the backside of the tumblers. The only time I've heard of someone changing out the tumblers is when they take the car to the dealership, which will want to change out the "gun" - they always seem to recommend swapping out the whole ignition switch system and not just the problem part. This turns a $30, 30-minute, relatively simple DIY into an $800+ repair bill. Take my word for it - it really is just the electrical portion of the ignition switch system that is bad. I will tell you that the first time it happened to me in my '99 C4, I was absolutely convinced that it had to be the tumblers going bad. It wasn't. So, no matter how skeptical you are, try this DIY first before you spend a buttload of cash replacing parts that don't need replacing. And, if I'm wrong (but I'm not), then you will have wasted at most $30 and about half an hour of your time.
The only tool you'll need is the aforementioned tiny, flatblade screwdriver tip. See the pic below - I'm talking about the first or second tip on the left on the bottom row: If you are stranded and need the part right away, NAPA keeps these things in stock - just walk in to your closest NAPA and they should have one on the shelf. The last time I bought one, the full retail price was $11.49. That's the good news. The bad news is that NAPA stocks the cheaper version of the part. A better, more robust version (about $30) can be bought at one of the online parts vendors. Our friends at www.warehouse33auto.net offer both the cheap and the better version of the switch, and frankly you won't find a better price than what warehouse33auto offers. You can use promo code 996OUTPOST to get another 10% off the price. Here's a link to the part:
https://www.warehouse33auto.com/catalog ... ion.Switch
Now, the only confusing part is that in addition to one cheap part and one better quality part, there are an early and a late variety of switch. The newer switch has a white cover on the backside of it, so if you have a 2002 model or later, you will probably use the switch with the white cover.: part number 4B0 905 849. My '99 used the switch without the white cover: part number 4A0 905 849 B. How do you know which one you'll need? Well, I, errr, uhh, am just not sure without removing the old one to check. I have heard some people say that you can look up in there and see the white cover without removing the switch, although I haven't tried that myself. As I said, if you've got a '99 or '00 model, my bet is on the old model. A 2003, 2004 or 2005, then I'd buy the new one. Maybe someone else will chime in on a way to check without looking at your current part. But, the good news is that it isn't real hard to remove the old one to check. We'll address the removal and replacement in the next post.
UPDATE: See my entry below on February 22, 2020 - The Auto Zone website showed the old part (4A0905849B) good for all cars 2003 and older. Sure enough, my 2002 used the old switch. According to Auto Zone, the new switch (4B0905849) is only for 2004 and later.
One of the first symptoms that your ignition switch is going bad is that your key will be difficult to remove from the tumblers. Also, you might feel your tumblers getting "crunchy". At that point, you'll swear that you've got a problem with the tumblers. However, the actual culprit is just the electrical portion of the ignition switch that sits on the backside of the tumblers. The only time I've heard of someone changing out the tumblers is when they take the car to the dealership, which will want to change out the "gun" - they always seem to recommend swapping out the whole ignition switch system and not just the problem part. This turns a $30, 30-minute, relatively simple DIY into an $800+ repair bill. Take my word for it - it really is just the electrical portion of the ignition switch system that is bad. I will tell you that the first time it happened to me in my '99 C4, I was absolutely convinced that it had to be the tumblers going bad. It wasn't. So, no matter how skeptical you are, try this DIY first before you spend a buttload of cash replacing parts that don't need replacing. And, if I'm wrong (but I'm not), then you will have wasted at most $30 and about half an hour of your time.
The only tool you'll need is the aforementioned tiny, flatblade screwdriver tip. See the pic below - I'm talking about the first or second tip on the left on the bottom row: If you are stranded and need the part right away, NAPA keeps these things in stock - just walk in to your closest NAPA and they should have one on the shelf. The last time I bought one, the full retail price was $11.49. That's the good news. The bad news is that NAPA stocks the cheaper version of the part. A better, more robust version (about $30) can be bought at one of the online parts vendors. Our friends at www.warehouse33auto.net offer both the cheap and the better version of the switch, and frankly you won't find a better price than what warehouse33auto offers. You can use promo code 996OUTPOST to get another 10% off the price. Here's a link to the part:
https://www.warehouse33auto.com/catalog ... ion.Switch
Now, the only confusing part is that in addition to one cheap part and one better quality part, there are an early and a late variety of switch. The newer switch has a white cover on the backside of it, so if you have a 2002 model or later, you will probably use the switch with the white cover.: part number 4B0 905 849. My '99 used the switch without the white cover: part number 4A0 905 849 B. How do you know which one you'll need? Well, I, errr, uhh, am just not sure without removing the old one to check. I have heard some people say that you can look up in there and see the white cover without removing the switch, although I haven't tried that myself. As I said, if you've got a '99 or '00 model, my bet is on the old model. A 2003, 2004 or 2005, then I'd buy the new one. Maybe someone else will chime in on a way to check without looking at your current part. But, the good news is that it isn't real hard to remove the old one to check. We'll address the removal and replacement in the next post.
UPDATE: See my entry below on February 22, 2020 - The Auto Zone website showed the old part (4A0905849B) good for all cars 2003 and older. Sure enough, my 2002 used the old switch. According to Auto Zone, the new switch (4B0905849) is only for 2004 and later.