996Outpost.com

So, Sunday, I spent an hour and a half screwing up a break bleed job on my 996tt. First, I broke off the outer bleed screw on the right front caliber. But, since I didn't get the screw to turn, it remains drivable. So, after bleeding the other 7 bleed screws, I went for a short drive. Pedal was mushy, mushy, mushy.

Here is the Harbor Freight vacuum break bleeder I used:

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-flu ... 92924.html


The instructions say the vacuum bleeder operates at 90 to 120 psi. My 8 gallon, 2 hp compressor, 125 psi max electric compressor just couldn't hold 90+ psi for more than about 15 seconds at a time. So, I constantly had to release the vacuum trigger, wait for 20 seconds or so and then re-engage. I think that led to air getting into the brake lines. I was careful to keep the brake fluid reservoir topped off the entire time, so I am confident that air didn't get in from the top of the system. I'm taking the car into the shop tomorrow to have the broken bleeder screw replaced and the brakes competently bled.

My question for the crowd is what is the easiest and most effective break bleeding method/system/equipment? Since the hooptie fleet is up to 6 cars, plus 3 daily drivers, it makes sense to invest a little money into a break bleeder. A pressure bleeder that pushes from the top? A higher quality vacuum bleeder coupled with a bigger compressor? Just save the tool money and always take it to a professional?

I like doing break jobs since the mechanics like to charge an arm and a leg for something that is relatively simple. So, I'd like to become competent at bleeding/flushing the brake system. My retired professional mechanic uncle always says that 90% of any job is having the right tools. What say you?

With the size of your fleet, [and since you have a proper lift] it just might make sense to up the ante for a better bleeder set up and a compressor that's up to the task. I'd be inclined to avoid Harbor Freight when you upgrade.

Practice the most on the vehicle that get's driven the least.

I use a Motive brake (yeah, I know, you used "break" intentionally) bleeder. It's a pump-up pressure bleeder. The instructions say to fill the Motive bleeder part-way with fluid, but I run it dry and simply top up the car's brake fluid reservoir after I bleed each corner. Easy peasy and clean up is a snap. Pro tip, if you can get some blue ATE fluid (still available in Europe) use it every other fluid change, it makes knowing when you've flushed each corner a breeze.

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collecti ... an-bleeder

I use the Motive bleeder as well, also without loading it with fluid. It's just acting as an air pressure supply. Be sure to keep the master topped off with fluid; if you forget you blow air through the lines and have a major task re-bleeding.
I have never had any luck with vacuum bleeders at the bleed screw.

Another voucher for the dry method Motive bleeder. I replaced all the hoses on mine so I have just a whip line coming off the bleeder with a quick disconnect, have a separate 8' line, and various master cylinder reservoir adapters. This set up allows me to pump the bleeder while on the ground. Trying to lean over a fender/bump and pump it is not ideal. For a pain free experience, invest in the master cylinder screw on adapters; the universal ones that clamp on are annoying and it will be annoying to constant get it on and off with the dry method. Assenmacher Specialty Tools (AST) makes high quality adapters for pretty much all makes and models. Their part number #TA18 fits pretty much everything European. Made in the USA and nice quality; screws on perfectly with no leaks. https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?fro ... nf=Porsche

You can see using the quick disconnects to change between adapters is handy if you end up with two or three adapters.

Why do you do this to me, you sick SOB?

FRUNKenstein wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 2:45 pm break
caliber

Thanks for all of the info, fellas. It looks like the general consensus is pressure bleeders to push from the top. Great idea to add an extension between the pump and the master cylinder. I see the Motive one, and I think ECS Tuning sells the Schwaben one, which Heidi and Franny recommend after using the Motive one in their video on the subject. So, I think I'll try one of those 2 models.

BTW, when I asked the same question of the group at Porsche Lunch today, the overwhelming response was "I dunno, I let Karl bleed my brakes." (Karl is our local indy) Gee, thanks guys.

And Schnelly, if it makes you feel any better, I probably had to re-type "breaks" 20 times and "caliber" at least once - good grammar habits are hard to break.

It wasn't subtle, mang.

+996 on te motive power bleeder.
I also use it dry and put a disconnect in line so I can add more fluid to the master cylinder without having to repump completely

There are 2 versions, one with a plastic cap for the MC and one with metal. Get the metal one. Not too much more $$.
You can also get additional caps for other vehicles. The one for Porsche else work on most other German cars