Anyone got a clamp Ammeter and non-wonky 996.1 handy?

[gnat]

If anyone has a clamp style Ammeter handy, can I get a favor? Can you get a read on your 996 (MkI ideally) both turned off and running?

I think my shop fucked something up when they replaced our security module. There have been weird intermittent issues (interior lights not working, blinker issues, cooling fan issues) and now it has gone from fully charged and happy to not enough power to start in incredibly short time spans twice. I think they didn't connect something right, there is a short, or there is a coding problem on the new module.

They of course just want to blame the battery which is less than a year old and a deep cycle. If I can compare the energy consumption against a good car's values I'm hoping that will make things obvious.

[FRUNKenstein]

I assume you got the battery checked to make sure it's good . . .
The battery was bad in the Jaguar F-Pace when I first picked it up, and the car wasn't even drivable. It would jump start, but would only go 10 yards before slipping itself into neutral and other funky stuff. They swapped out the battery, and it's been fine ever since. I have never seen a bad battery create so many problems.

And, if it is a AGM battery, they do funny things when they get discharged, like not re-charging correctly in some circumstances. I found that out the hard way when I had that damn Audi A8L.

And of course, there's the ignition switch issue that causes all kinds of electrical gremlins.

Lastly, (summoning the ghost of Gonzo) mice.

All that being said, I hope you figure it out. Electrical problems are the freaking worst.

[theprf]

Make sure your clamp-on ammeter has a "DC" setting. A lot of cheap ones are AC only.
I would be happy to check the readings on my '01 Turbo if that would help you.

[gnat]

I assume you got the battery checked to make sure it's good . . .

Even the shop had to admit that it tested fine when they tested it.

I pulled it from the car after making this thread and where it wouldn't put the window back up after closing the door yesterday, it did so fine this morning and I didn't have to plug it up to the P!g for power to do that.

I put it on my battery unit and it reported that it's currently at a 75% charge which should be more than enough to start the car. Something fucked up is going on. I'm running it through a recondition cycle now and then I'll let it trickle charge to top it off while I wait for this cold weather that comes in tomorrow to pass.

It would jump start, but would only go 10 yards before slipping itself into neutral and other funky stuff.

Ugh. I had forgotten Jag's "limp mode" shenanigans. My XK8 decided to put itself in neutral on me while I was doing 80+ on a highway and then would only drive in 2nd gear after restarting it until I could get to a safe spot to call for a tow.

And, if it is a AGM battery, they do funny things when they get discharged, like not re-charging correctly in some circumstances. I found that out the hard way when I had that damn Audi A8L.

I don't think it's AGM, but I don't remember for sure. It's an Optima deep cycle though specifically because I'm tired of killing 1-2 year old batteries when we can't drive it for a few months and it drains them flat. Soooo glad Optima finally started offering a batter that fits.

And of course, there's the ignition switch issue that causes all kinds of electrical gremlins.

I have wondered about that. I can't remember if this was still the original or not.

Lastly, (summoning the ghost of Gonzo) mice.

Would be squirrels, but not an impossibility.

[gnat]

Make sure your clamp-on ammeter has a "DC" setting. A lot of cheap ones are AC only.
I would be happy to check the readings on my '01 Turbo if that would help you.

I'll take what I can get, but I know your running value won't mean much and I don't know if there are vampire differences between the MkI and MkII that might invalidate the non-running value.

[theprf]

Sorry it took me so long. Here's what I did. All these measurements are on the battery positive wire with the current probe immediately next to the battery. I degaussed the current probe after each measurement (dc magnetizes the probe so it should be degaussed) and I repeated each measurement at least twice.

Please note, I doubt the accuracy of this setup when it's less than 100mA so when I write 40mA it could be 25mA or 65mA. I have a high accuracy current probe which won't fit around the battery cable.
Also, this car is not alarm perfect either. I have no center console so it always double-beeps. And the interior sensors set the alarm off completely at random so I always double-press the fob which disables the interior sensors.

Car completely powered down, key fob won't unlock door, sitting for about a week: 20mA
Unlock with the key then the fob to prevent alarm from going off: 2.5A while the interior lights are on, then 0.3A when the interior lights go out.
Key in, ignition on, door closed, HVAC system off: 6A to 8A.
Start engine: 25A charging then drops to 12A charging after about 1 minute.
Engine off, key still in the ignition: door open: 3.5A
Pull key out, door open: 3.2A
Close door, after interior lights go out: 1.1A
Two presses of the key fob to lock & disable interior sensors: 1.0A
5 minutes later: 250mA
5 more minutes so 10 minutes after locking with the fob: 140mA
5 more minutes so 15 minutes after locking with the fob: 40mA
5 more minutes so now it's 20 minutes after locking with the fob: 20mA

[gnat]

Wow. Way overkill, but thanks as it gives me way more debugging info.

For anyone else that can help, just the reading after unlock (once lights and whatnot are off) and running with accessories off is plenty.

I always double-press the fob which disables the interior sensors

Almost 22 fucking years and I'm just learning this? FML

[gnat]

Reconditioning completed with no issues, load test passed, and it's charged back to 100%. Will leave it on float until this cold weather passes (12/31 will be in the 60s) and then see what I get for load readings.

[gnat]

Ugh. Testing was delayed as I can't find my Ammeter and had to get a new one

Finally tested it today and the results were not directly helpful. Some of my readings were significantly higher and others were lower. I hoped for some clear sign so my argument with the shop would be easier, but no joy.

Oh well, now to go down and corner the owner and have a chat about my views of the last couple of visits.

[theprf]

The only really important reading is after 20 minutes with the car locked. To test this you'll need to close the frunk latch with the frunk open, just push the latch down with a screwdriver until it clicks. If the frunk isn't closed (the latch isn't closed to be specific) the car will not completely power down.
All my tests were with the frunk latch closed.