When for a drive last night while it was cool outside. The door has no problems opening and closing, but once you lock it, it may take several lock/unlock sequences to get it to open again. Just the driver side door. And so, based on that evidence, I assume the locking assembly into the door is malfunctioning in respect to the lock release mechanism. Thoughts?DBJoe996 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 28, 2019 6:23 am I find it hugely ironic that you bring this up, because my car has started to do this on hot days. If the sun hits the drivers side of the door, pull the door handle and the window drops but the door does not open. Only happens when it is a hot day. Sometimes I unlock, pull, then have to relock, then unlock again and it works. I have taken to not locking the door if I feel the car is in a safe place. Usually then I can walk up to it, pull the handle and it opens right up. This is so stupid, but I have been selecting parking spaces based on whether the sun will hit the drivers side door.
My door latch is well lubricated. I do believe in the end I will have to replace the entire door latch mechanism (#14).
DOOR WAY To HELL - HELP!!!
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Re: DOOR WAY To HELL - HELP!!!
Re: DOOR WAY To HELL - HELP!!!
I would check every point of contact for the door. A gap that isn't normally affected by temperature is now causing interference when the parts expand - which suggests that one of the "fixed" points has become less fixed, or at least misaligned.
Check the hinges. Verify that there is no play in the door vertically (both with the door only slightly open and when it's fully open), and push it all the way to the stops (without damaging anything, of course) to confirm that the stops work as expected.
Check the latch posts to ensure a seatbelt didn't get slammed into the door and push the post out of alignment.
Ensure the receiver part of the catch mechanism inside the door frame is also tight. Everything should be clean and lubed up. If there is any rust in the roller/spring assembly on the A-pillar that keeps the door open in the half- and full-open positions, clean those up and lubricate with an appropriate non-gooping lubricant...
Check the hinges. Verify that there is no play in the door vertically (both with the door only slightly open and when it's fully open), and push it all the way to the stops (without damaging anything, of course) to confirm that the stops work as expected.
Check the latch posts to ensure a seatbelt didn't get slammed into the door and push the post out of alignment.
Ensure the receiver part of the catch mechanism inside the door frame is also tight. Everything should be clean and lubed up. If there is any rust in the roller/spring assembly on the A-pillar that keeps the door open in the half- and full-open positions, clean those up and lubricate with an appropriate non-gooping lubricant...
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Horsepower: How hard you will hit the wall.
Torque: How far you will move the wall.
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Re: DOOR WAY To HELL - HELP!!!
I've had this issue in the past. You need to determine if the interior door is able to open the door. If the interior handle can open the door, linkage between exterior door handle and #14 has failed. The other possibility is your key tumbler in the exterior door is somehow jammed in the lock position. (Very unlikely if you never use it) If the above items check out, replace #14 immediately.
In the diagram #14 failed on me (on driver side), and neither the interior/exterior door would open the door after hitting the unlock button. The issue is that the mechanism that locks/unlocks the door failed. The issue showed symptoms prior to failing; sometimes I would have to pull the door handle twice to open the door after unlocking. Then it became 3 pulls, then 4, then it would no longer open. I decided to change it after finally have to crawl through the passenger side one day. I accidentally locked the door when I got home (fuggen muscle memory) and spent 30ish minutes trying to get it open. I don't want to think about what would've happened if the door didnt open.
Let me know if you have questions, I've done this twice. I bought a used, 30k mileage one off parts society, and regret it. It failed within 3 months and gave me all the issues above. First replacement was to resolve window drop issue.
In the diagram #14 failed on me (on driver side), and neither the interior/exterior door would open the door after hitting the unlock button. The issue is that the mechanism that locks/unlocks the door failed. The issue showed symptoms prior to failing; sometimes I would have to pull the door handle twice to open the door after unlocking. Then it became 3 pulls, then 4, then it would no longer open. I decided to change it after finally have to crawl through the passenger side one day. I accidentally locked the door when I got home (fuggen muscle memory) and spent 30ish minutes trying to get it open. I don't want to think about what would've happened if the door didnt open.
Let me know if you have questions, I've done this twice. I bought a used, 30k mileage one off parts society, and regret it. It failed within 3 months and gave me all the issues above. First replacement was to resolve window drop issue.
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Re: DOOR WAY To HELL - HELP!!!
9A7-837-015-03 is the latest revision and is noticeably smoother than my older passenger side mechanism. Neighborhood of $230 if I remember correctly.
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Re: DOOR WAY To HELL - HELP!!!
5chn3ll wrote: ↑Mon Apr 29, 2019 8:41 am I would check every point of contact for the door. A gap that isn't normally affected by temperature is now causing interference when the parts expand - which suggests that one of the "fixed" points has become less fixed, or at least misaligned.
Check the hinges. Verify that there is no play in the door vertically (both with the door only slightly open and when it's fully open), and push it all the way to the stops (without damaging anything, of course) to confirm that the stops work as expected.
Check the latch posts to ensure a seatbelt didn't get slammed into the door and push the post out of alignment.
Ensure the receiver part of the catch mechanism inside the door frame is also tight. Everything should be clean and lubed up. If there is any rust in the roller/spring assembly on the A-pillar that keeps the door open in the half- and full-open positions, clean those up and lubricate with an appropriate non-gooping lubricant...
Thanks man... I'll definitely take your advice. Would love it if it was something simple like lubrication.
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Re: DOOR WAY To HELL - HELP!!!
First, I'm going to take Gnat, Bill, and Schnelly's advice and examine the situation a little closer for obvious reasons, but my gut feeling is you're right and the only way to solve the problem if to replace the locking assembly. Ugh! Frustrated because I just did some work on the doors fixing a polarity problem with the door speaker. Not easy taking that door panel and moisture barrier off. And, those little plastic door panel retainers started breaking up on me last time. Guess have I'll have to order some of those too. I tried getting some aftermarket retainers and they didn't hold the panel tight against the door like the OEM. Guess it just further proves why you should stick with factory parts.sweet victory wrote: ↑Mon Apr 29, 2019 11:40 am I've had this issue in the past. You need to determine if the interior door is able to open the door. If the interior handle can open the door, linkage between exterior door handle and #14 has failed. The other possibility is your key tumbler in the exterior door is somehow jammed in the lock position. (Very unlikely if you never use it) If the above items check out, replace #14 immediately.
In the diagram #14 failed on me (on driver side), and neither the interior/exterior door would open the door after hitting the unlock button. The issue is that the mechanism that locks/unlocks the door failed. The issue showed symptoms prior to failing; sometimes I would have to pull the door handle twice to open the door after unlocking. Then it became 3 pulls, then 4, then it would no longer open. I decided to change it after finally have to crawl through the passenger side one day. I accidentally locked the door when I got home (fuggen muscle memory) and spent 30ish minutes trying to get it open. I don't want to think about what would've happened if the door didnt open.
Let me know if you have questions, I've done this twice. I bought a used, 30k mileage one off parts society, and regret it. It failed within 3 months and gave me all the issues above. First replacement was to resolve window drop issue.
Thanks guys!
Re: DOOR WAY To HELL - HELP!!!
Even if it is the mechanism, a burr or a rough edge could be all that's keeping it from working right. Make sure everything is free and clear and properly lubed before you chuck parts at it...
Understeer: You will hit the wall with the front end.
Oversteer: You will hit the wall with the rear end.
Horsepower: How hard you will hit the wall.
Torque: How far you will move the wall.
Gone hunting with Alec Baldwin and Dick Cheney. Back soon.
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Re: DOOR WAY To HELL - HELP!!!
Just got the parts ordered. I guess I could risk it a little longer, but since getting locked out of a 996 ranks up there with some of the worst experiences owners have, I think I'll be proactive with this repair and get'r done this weekend. Thanks for all the help guys!
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Re: DOOR WAY To HELL - HELP!!!
b3freak wrote: ↑Mon May 13, 2019 11:13 am Just got the parts ordered. I guess I could risk it a little longer, but since getting locked out of a 996 ranks up there with some of the worst experiences owners have, I think I'll be proactive with this repair and get'r done this weekend. Thanks for all the help guys!
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Current:
2002 996TT X50, Guards Red
1987 928S4, Guards Red
1987 951, Guards Red
1973 914 2.0 Bahia Red
2006 955S, Lapis Blue
Other toys:
1988 BMW 325i Cabriolet, Alpin Weiss
1987 Bertone X1/9, Verde Chiaro
Gone but not forgotten: 1975 914 2.0, Laguna Blue; 1999 996 C4 Aerokit Black; 1990 964 C2 Guards Red; 2006 955S Arctic Silver
Current:
2002 996TT X50, Guards Red
1987 928S4, Guards Red
1987 951, Guards Red
1973 914 2.0 Bahia Red
2006 955S, Lapis Blue
Other toys:
1988 BMW 325i Cabriolet, Alpin Weiss
1987 Bertone X1/9, Verde Chiaro
Gone but not forgotten: 1975 914 2.0, Laguna Blue; 1999 996 C4 Aerokit Black; 1990 964 C2 Guards Red; 2006 955S Arctic Silver